For those of you who've wondered about how Hipstamatic 300 (now at version 340) now saves images, and how to get your processed images off your phone, here's some information that should help...
A while back Apple introduced "non-destructive” image editing. (For a full explanation, see below.) Essentially, the original image lives underneath the edited version (so you can always revert to the original version). This is designed to work seamlessly with the new Photos App in Yosemite. We’re using this technology to give users the ability to re-edit photos and switch the gear after it has been shot. If you are not running the new Photos App, your files may appear unedited when ported to your desktop. Apple’s official work around for this is to “email the images to yourself.”
As you may have already noticed, when you edit photos in Hipstamatic that were shot with another app, the edit is saved as a copy (a flattened .jpg). These images should have no trouble syncing using any desktop software you choose. However the default mode when capturing in Hipstamatic 300 is to save the original, with the effected image on top of it as a “version”. This allows you to change the lens/flash/film later non-destructively, as it applies it to the original photo rather than “on top of” the initial lens/flash/film it was shot with.
The Hipstamatic app now allows you to send yourself multiple pictures at the same time. If you haven’t already, please check the Updates section of the App store app on your phone. You should see version 337 there. Just let the App store install it as normal. No need to delete your current copy of Hipstamatic.
Then, once you’ve updated to that version (or if you have already) here’s how to use the new function:
Open Hipstamatic and go into the in-app photo gallery. On the All Photos screen you’ll see a new icon in the upper right (it looks like four small squares). Tap on that icon. Then select any/all images you want to export. Then tap ‘Transfer’ at the bottom of the screen. You’ll see three options:
- send them to iCloud
- ‘More’ (tap that to see the option to upload them to Dropbox)
- ‘Zip and Send’ (tap that to email them to yourself)
Any images exported using any of those methods will have your Hipstamatic effects intact.
You may also notice that if you use an app other than Apple’s Photos app, that images saved that way are syncing over as raw originals, rather than edited Hipstamatic photos. Unfortunately, there is not much we can do about this, since the problem is with the syncing apps and not with iOS or Hipstamatic. All we can do is offer workarounds, which is what we’ve added in to this latest version. The workarounds aren’t perfect, but for those of you not ready to make the jump to Photos on the Mac, feel free to use these options to get your photos synced with Hipstamatic edits / effects. You can change the Hipstamatic capture mode to be “Edited Only”. You will find this in the Settings app on your device under Hipstamatic -> Capture. (IMPORTANT NOTE: When shooting in this mode you will not be able to re-edit these images non-destructively – opening the Editing Suite will result in a second effect being applied on top of the already filtered image.)
Here’s a complete breakdown of the different ways to Capture and Save images with Hipstamatic. This information may help you decide which options to use to best suit your style of shooting and/or editing. These options can be found in the Settings app on your device. Scroll down to find the Hipstamatic entry in the Apps section.
*Edited and Original (non-destructive)*
The original image you shot is saved, with the Hipstamatic version saved as a layer on top. This allows non-destructive editing (changing the lens/film/flash/etc.) without losing image quality, and also allows you to revert to the original photo at any time. This setting works best if you use iCloud Photo Library (as all edits and originals are synced automatically between your iPhone and Mac). If you do not use iCloud Photo Library, you will have to manually send images from Hipstamatic to your Mac or PC, as syncing currently only sends the original photo and not the Hipstamatic version. This is the default setting and is equivalent to *Save as Version* when editing photos.
*Edited Only (destructive)*
Only the Hipstamatic image is saved (the original is discarded). This setting is not ideal as any editing is applied on top of the already effected Hipstamatic image (which can lead to image quality loss or extreme photo effects). However it can help simplify syncing if you do not use iCloud Photo Library, as it allows you to use any syncing software you would like to transfer your Hipstamatic images to your Mac or PC. This setting is equivalent to *Save as Copy* when editing photos.
*Always Save as Version*
The original image is saved, with the Hipstamatic version saved as a layer on top. This allows non-destructive editing (changing the lens/film/flash/etc.) without losing image quality, and also allows you to revert to the original photo at any time. This setting works best if you use iCloud Photo Library (as all edits and originals are synced automatically between your iPhone and Mac). If you do not use iCloud Photo Library, you will have to manually send images from Hipstamatic to your Mac or PC, as syncing currently only sends the original photo and not the Hipstamatic version.
*Save as Copy for New Edits*
Any new edits (of a photo you did not shoot with Hipstamatic) will be saved as a flattened copy. The original will still be in the photo library. This setting works best if you do not use iCloud Photo Library, as it allows you to use any syncing software you would like to transfer your Hipstamatic images to your Mac or PC. This is the default setting.
*Ask for New Edits*
Any new edits (of a photo you did not shoot with Hipstamatic) will prompt you when saving. This allows you to choose the 'Save as Version' or 'Save as Copy' options (described above) on a case-by-case basis.
Any edits (of a photo you did not shoot with Hipstamatic or a photo you previously edited with Hipstamatic) will prompt you when saving. This allows you to choose the 'Save as Version' or 'Save as Copy' options (described above) on a case-by-case basis.
If you have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to email us at: firstname.lastname@example.org
Additional information about "Non-Destructive Image Editing"
Apple added new APIs in iOS 8 to allow developers to have full access to the photo library, including editing existing images (this wasn’t previously possible, you could only “import” the photo and save a new copy with whatever edits you made). When using these new APIs to edit, iOS always saves the original photo before editing, and adds the edit as a “version” (the original is embedded and hidden when viewing in the Photos app, but can always be restored via a “Revert” button). Whenever you see the “Hipstamatic would like to modify this photo” alert, this is iOS verifying you want to allow the edit, but also signifies the operation is non-destructive — the original will be maintained.
Apple did a lot of things right with this API, and viewing and editing photos on your iOS devices works great. However there remains a sticking point with getting these photos off your device and synced to your desktop or laptop. If you upgrade to Yosemite and use the new Photos app (which I personally think is done quite well), again everything works great and your edits come over (along with the embedded originals — you can still “revert” even on your Mac, and if you’re using iCloud photo library all these changes are synchronized across all your devices).
If you use older apps like iPhoto or Image Capture, however, things do not work magically and seamlessly. Since these apps were never designed to handle “versions”, Apple makes the assumption that you want the Original photo (which is probably the safest assumption), but unfortunately they do not give you the option to get the Edited version. Instead the official Apple sanctioned workaround is to “Email the photo you want to yourself”. This is, of course, a bit of a clunky workaround.
The behavior for Save Edits as a Copy has been changed in Hipstamatic to save as a flattened copy, rather than an editable copy. This means they should sync properly to legacy photo apps, however it also means that once you make an edit you can’t easily tweak that edit. If you attempt to re-edit the copy it will apply effects on top of the last edit. Alternatively you can re-edit the original (which will save a new copy, but will work on the original image data instead of on top of the last edit).
There is also a new option in the Settings app that lets you Capture photos with the Edit Only. This is NOT the default option, but a behavior you can opt-in to via Settings. This will again allow you to more easily sync your photos to legacy photo apps, but also has the caveat of not saving the original nor allowing you to change the lens/flash/film after the fact (without applying it on top of the lens/flash/film you shot it with). Some who prefer the classic behavior of requiring you to make all decisions before shooting (with all decisions final) may actually really like this mode :-)
As noted, these are not perfect solutions but unfortunately are hands are a bit tied since the main issue has to do with syncing photos off the device using older photo apps. The best way to use Hipstamatic 300 is capturing the 'Edited and Original' and selecting the 'Always Save as Version' option. (This keeps your photo library nice and tidy and gives you the peace of mind knowing there is always the original stored if you need it). We wanted to give you all options to use the app the way you want to use it, so hopefully these changes will be helpful.